Monday, August 19, 2019

Saluting Annapolis on World Photography Day

Sailing the Chesapeake Bay
Planning a recent three-day getaway, I considered it my patriotic duty to head in the direction of Baltimore.

When the U.S. President calls a city a "disgusting, rat and rodent infested mess," well... gauntlet thrown. I'm all in to show support.

Yes, parts of Baltimore -- just like parts of my beloved New Jersey and New York -- are grappling with poverty and crime.

But I saw no mess. With tickets to see the Orioles host the Astros, I saw beauty all around me... from the sculpture garden, to the children playing in Kids' Corner, to the shops and vendors along Eutaw Street. Here, for example, is a photo of the Camden Yards field, no filter, taken with my iPhone:


After opening more than 27 years ago, this baseball park still rivals anything in the major leagues. The fans are friendly, and quirky... enthusiastically emphasizing the "O" in "O, say can you see" during the national anthem (penned by Francis Scott Key in Baltimore during the War of 1812) and happily signing along to "Thank God I'm a Country Boy" during the 7th inning stretch.

Chickens in the street
Leaving Baltimore, my wife and I headed for Annapolis, which was also a little quirky. I counted nine, large decorative chickens on the streets near where we stayed -- remnants of a public art project hatched in 2012, when legislation was passed allowing local residents to have up to six chickens in their backyard for fresh eggs.

Despite unnerving flashbacks to the epic chicken fights in old episodes of "Family Guy," I greatly enjoyed Annapolis. There's plenty of food and drink and music in town, and sailing on Chesapeake Bay, beautiful historical architecture... and, best of all, the U.S. Naval Academy, where future officers are educated and trained.

I took the 90-minute walking tour, which is highly recommended. It's inspirational -- and it again brought back memories of my Dad, a former Naval reserve captain. More than that, visiting "The Yard," as the grounds of the academy are called, is a true patriotic duty.

As described on the tour's informational website, "professional, certified guides provide commentary on major attractions, including Bancroft Hall (midshipmen dormitory), Memorial Hall, Statue of Tecumseh, Herndon Monument (famous for Herndon Climb), Main Chapel and Crypt of John Paul Jones, Revolutionary War naval hero." You also learn about the admissions process and the education and training of midshipmen.

The commitment to honor and tradition, to self-sacrifice and to excellence, is palpable while touring campus. And, at several points along the way, the tour guide or someone else in passing invoked the name of John McCain with fondness and reverence.

Sometimes, there are no words. So let me show you a few more photos instead. It is, after all, #WorldPhotographyDay.

Here, for starters, is the inside of the campus chapel. The flowers mark a pew where no one ever sits. It's reserved in memory of all reported as MIA or being held as prisoners of war:


Here's the rotunda leading to Memorial Hall, where the walls are engraved with the names of 2,660 Naval Academy alumni who have died in military operations. The banner at the top of the stairway,  "Don't Give Up the Ship," recalls the dying command of James Lawrence aboard U.S.S Chesapeake, also during the War of 1812.


The rotunda is also the centerpiece of Bancroft Hall, a contiguous set of dormitories named after a former U.S. Secretary of the Navy. The dorms are home to the brigade of more than 4,000 midshipmen on campus. The entire brigade marches into Bancroft Hall (but never through the center doors!) during Noon Meal Formation, an elaborate daily ceremony.


Finally, here's Dahlgren Hall, a wonderful Beaux Arts building designed by architect Ernest Flagg and completed in 1903. It has served as an armory, indoor drill area, a Weapons Department laboratory and the site of graduation ceremonies at the academy through 1957.


John McCain, who is buried in Annapolis, graduated from the U.S. Naval Academy in 1958. The former senator died of brain cancer at age 81 nearly a year ago today, Aug. 25, 2018.

As the Washington Post described his burial, "Hundreds of midshipmen packed the academy chapel and lined an avenue for a long procession. Defense Secretary Jim Mattis walked ahead of McCain's flag-draped casket on a caisson pulled by a team of horses from the Army's Old Guard. Four fighter jets from the Blue Angels squadron roared overhead after the ceremony in a tight wedge. One F-18 broke away and climbed skyward in the 'missing man' formation to honor the memory of McCain, a former Naval aviator."

The U.S. President did not attend that burial. Which is just as well.

I'll close this "photography post" -- and once more invoke patriotism -- with a few lines from McCain's address to the Brigade of Midshipmen at the U.S. Naval Academy in late October 2017. He thanked recruits for accepting the sacrifices of military service, and said this:

How did we end up here? Why do many Americans ignore our moral and historical knowledge and seek escape from the world we've led so successfully? 
There are many wise answers to those questions. My own is: we are asleep to the necessity of our leadership, and to the opportunities and real dangers of this world. We are asleep in our echo chambers, where our views are always affirmed and information that contradicts them is always fake... 
It's time to wake up. 
I believe in Americans. We're capable of better. I've seen it. We're hopeful, compassionate people. And we still have leaders who will uphold the values that made America great, and a beacon to the oppressed. 
But I don't take that for granted. We have to fight. We have to fight against propaganda and crackpot conspiracy theories. We have to fight isolationism, protectionism, and nativism. We have to defeat those who would worsen our divisions. We have to remind our sons and daughters that we became the most powerful nation on earth by tearing down walls, not building them."


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